2 MID-LIFE CYCLISTS IN A MOTORHOME: September 2016

Cycle path through the vineyards at Kayserberg

4^th September. After much discussion and map browsing over the last 2 weeks we have decided to head towards the Alsace region in France to test out the new motorhome. Time permitting I would love to carry on a bit further and cross over in to Germany to Lake Constance but I have a feeling we will run out of time and will have to add this to our long list of “must visit” places. Although our ferry crossing isn't until 6am tomorrow we set off after lunch to head for Dover a day early as part of the M20 motorway is closed whilst they remove a damaged bridge and we were concerned in case this impacted on traffic on the M2. We had an uneventful journey as it turned out and decided to go straight to the port to see if we could get an earlier crossing. Well it clearly isn't as easy to change your ferry time like it is with the Eurotunnel. They were more than happy to let us on an earlier ferry but the additional fee was far greater than we had paid for our return tickets initially. We politely declined and headed for a pub just outside Dover where it is free to park for the night. We decided a nice bit of pub grub was on the cards so headed to the bar to see what was on offer. Just our luck that the landlady was on her own because her barmaid had called in sick so the kitchen was closed. Oh well a quick beer and then it was back to the motorhome to cook dinner and then an early night!!

Stenay

5^th September. As we had been advised the day before that we could get on the 6am ferry instead of the 8am ferry at no extra cost we awoke at 4.30am to the sound of the alarm clock! Stumbling groggily from our bed we downed a quick cuppa before heading straight to the terminal. After a quick and easy check-in we parked up and had breakfast while we waited to board. I must admit I hadn't been looking forward to the ferry crossing after the ease and speed of the Eurotunnel but as it turned out it wasn't too bad.

The Aire at Stenay

Boarding was smooth and easy and the 2 hour crossing didn't drag too much whilst we topped up our caffeine levels and watched the news on the TV in the cafeteria. We were expecting some delays at Dunkirk as it was the day of a big planned demo by lorry drivers over the issues at Calais with the migrants. A rolling roadblock was going to be leaving Dunkirk to head to Calais and although we saw a very high police presence and several lorries parked at the side of a road we were completely unaffected and made good time as we headed towards Stenay for our first planned stopover.

The Aire at Stenay was in a lovely quiet area just on the edge of the village and adjacent to the River Meuse and the Canal de l'Est. We decided to stretch our legs after the long drive so we explored the village on foot before heading round to the mooring area to view the boats and barges. It was a very scenic area and the Aire is definitely one we would return to. It was now time to chill with dinner, red wine and an early night after our rude awakening at 4.30am.

The view from the Aire at Charmes

6th September. Today our destination was Charmes as we had researched the area and there was an Aire right on the bank of the canal with a cycle path to Epinal. The Aire was very popular and it was easy to see why as it was right on the edge of town with all possible amenities close by but set right on the edge of the canal with a tree lined bank and cycle path on the other side. After a quick bike ride to Tourist Info for a bike map and a brief stop at Lidl for some groceries we sat on the edge of the canal and watched our French neighbour fishing for his supper. Watching his wife skin and gut the live fish with such speed and ease was both disturbing and fascinating in equal measures.

The cycle path to Epinal

7th September. We awoke to a gorgeous sunny day and as it was 27 kms to Epinal we set off soon after breakfast. The cycle path was in really good condition making for a very pleasant ride as we passed along the edge of several villages en route. There was very little in the way of traffic on the river and even less traffic on the cycle path so we virtually had the path to ourselves. The Moselle follows the same line as the Canal de l'Est so several times we got glimpses of the river through the trees as it flowed closer to the canal path. There is a point just before Epinal where the canal branches off in to two, the south branch and the Epinal branch. Unfortunately for us it wasn't signposted so we carried on, not realising that the path we were on was actually bypassing Epinal. Luckily we realised before we had gone too far and after asking a local for directions we left the canal path and took the road in to town.

Epinal

Our 27km ride had actually become 35kms by the time we reached the centre so we decided it was definitely time for a well earned break. The Moselle passes right through the centre of town so we found a bench facing the river and sat enjoying the view while we ate the packed lunch we had brought with us. Lunch consumed it was time to find Tourist Info and a coffee shop, not necessarily in that order!! As we wandered along we couldn't see any signs for Tourist Info so we asked a passing police car. The policeman started to try and give us directions and then said "follow me, i'll take you there". We didn't even have time to don our helmets and cycle gloves before he was off. Riding one handed while we tried to do up our helmets was fun! Luckily we stopped at a red light which gave us time to finish buckling up and getting our gloves on. After crossing the river he indicated the location of Tourist Info and we waved our thanks as he drove off. What a lovely policeman. Clutching our tourist map from TI we headed off in search of caffeine and sat outside a little street cafe enjoying our café au lait. After a brief exploration of the town we found the cycle path that would take us back and set off. After a really pleasant ride totalling 64kms we decided to spend the afternoon chilling by the canal edge reading and relaxing.

Strasbourg Cathedral

9th September. We spent yesterday exploring the cycle path in the opposite direction but when the path came to an end just 7kms from the Aire we headed back and spent a lovely afternoon relaxing by the canal in the sun. This morning we set off for the 2 hour drive to Kehl, just across the German border. We were keen to explore Strasbourg but didn't like the look of the Aire there so we decided to head to a Stellplatz in Kehl so we could then cycle in to Strasbourg. The location was perfect and after a quick lunch we donned our cycling gear and were soon crossing back over the border in to France. What can I say about Strasbourg except it was stunning and we spent a lovely afternoon exploring the city centre and admiring the beautiful buildings. We got a bit lost on the many cycle paths that emanate out from the centre trying to get back to Germany and we must have spent an hour cycling around, laughing each time we realised we were back on a path we had previously been on.

Strasbourg

Eventually we stopped to ask a local for help as Glynn was in danger of losing his sense of humour and we were soon on the correct path. After a nice 30km ride, most of which was probably done trying to find our way home, the rest of the day involved nothing more stressful than watching the time trial of the Vuelta a España and enjoying a nice glass of red wine with our dinner.

10th September. What an amazing day we had today. We drove to Chatenois in the morning, a beautiful village with a lovely free Aire in a region of outstanding beauty surrounded by vineyards, forests and mountains.

Half-timbered houses in Chatenois

When I had been researching the trip prior to leaving home I had read about Haut Koenigsbourg, a medieval castle located in the Vosges mountains and a tough but scenic cycle ride from Chatenois. With an equal mixture of nerves (me) and excitement (Glynn) we set off, passing first through Chatenois and Kintzheim with their beautiful half-timbered houses synonymous with the Alsace region. My aim was to make it to the top without stopping and I must admit to some trepidation when I looked up and nearly got whiplash as I spied the castle set way up on top of the mountain. It looked completely unachievable from the base of the climb but in reality was much easier as the road weaved backwards and forwards reducing the gradient of the climb.

Chateau de Haut Koenigsbourg

Don't get me wrong, it was certainly not a walk in the park and I could feel my face turning beetroot red from the heat and exertion but an hour and eight minutes after leaving Chatenois (yes I was counting!!) we reached the summit, 757 metres above sea level. Annoyingly a young couple arrived on their bikes shortly after us looking annoyingly fresh whereas I was still beetroot red and had wet hair plastered to my head. I consoled myself with the fact that they were on carbon road bikes whereas we were on hybrids and they were young enough to be my children! Glynn went to order 2 coffees from the cafe while I stood admiring the view which was incredible.

Is that Chatenois down there?

I could make out two miniature looking villages far below and guessed one of them might be Chatenois. After coffee and a packed lunch we admired the castle and took some photographs before beginning the descent. Our speed quickly escalated to over 30mph and trying to take hairpin bends when you're descending that fast is not my idea of fun so I had both brakes on trying to reduce my speed. It gives you a new-found respect for pro cyclists who descend at far greater speeds than I would ever want to experience. In stark contrast to the 68 minute climb we were back in Chatenois just 10 short minutes later. It had been an awesome ride and I was keen to explore more of the area so after a quick coffee break we set off again and after cycling along some lovely flat roads with views of mountains all around we discovered a lovely tarmaced cycle path to a little village called Haute. We enjoyed a great ride through the pretty countryside before returning to relax for the rest of the day. We had cycled 40kms in total so now it was time to chill.

Eguisheim

11th September. This morning we drove to Eguisheim, ranked one of the most beautiful villages in France. There is a winery on the edge of the village that invites motorhomers to park up for free and even supplies free electricity!! For obvious reasons it was very popular so we were glad we had arrived early and got a place to park. We then went to enjoy some wine tasting and although we prefer red wine and the Alsace is a white wine region we enjoyed an hour trying their various wines and learning all about them. With some wine purchased we then set off for a walk around the village. It was easy to see why it is ranked one of the most beautiful villages in France and I nearly flattened my camera battery I took so many photos. When we got back there was an English van parked next to us and when they returned from their exploration of the village we got talking and they introduced themselves as Val and John.

Eguisheim

During the course of the conversation it turned out that they lived just 15 miles from us, what a small world. We got on as if we had known each other for years and apart from disappearing in to our respective motorhomes to cook dinner we sat outside chatting and drinking wine until almost midnight with barely a pause in the conversation as we swapped information on all things motorhoming. Now I know those of you that know me will be saying that I always talk a lot but even Glynn didn't shut up all night!

12th September. We travelled just 15kms this morning to park up at Kayserberg, a favourite stop of ours from a previous tour of the area 2 years ago. It is a beautiful medieval village full of half-timbered houses and surrounded by vineyards and forested hills.

Cycle route through the vineyards

There are excellent cycle paths that lead through the vineyards and it really is a stunning area. We ventured out for a ride but the heat was intense so we settled for a gentle 20 km ride visiting Riquewihr, Bennwihr and Ammerschwir before spending the rest of the afternoon relaxing. Val and John joined us at Kayserberg as they were slowly heading north to attend a quilting fayre later in the week. We introduced them to the delights of the card game Phase 10 and after a hilarious evening Val won.

Half-timbered building in Riquewihr

13th September. After promising to meet up back in England we waved goodbye to Val and John and set off for Ligny-en-Barrois. The first part of the route was absolutely breathtaking as the road rose through mountains covered in pine forests. We got occasional glimpses of the valley far below through gaps in the trees as we weaved around hairpin bends before descending back down again. When we got to the Aire it was set right on the edge of the canal which links the river Marne to the Rhine and there was a mooring area for boats. After a quick stroll along the canal edge to the nearby Aldi to top up our supplies we sat outside in the sun to read. The cost of the Aire was €2.40 and a man calls early evening to collect it. Although there was a service area we only wanted one container of water to top up so the man let me in to the marina shower block. He came in with me to hold the container while I filled it and I accidentally caught the hose on the edge of the rim and sprayed him in water. I apologised profusely and I was desperately trying not to laugh as he stood there with water dripping off the end of his nose. After we came out the man walked off wiping his head and Glynn asked me why he was all wet. I collapsed in fits of laughter as I explained my faux pas and as the man finished his collections and prepared to drive off Glynn called out his apologies and thanked him again for the water.

Lac du der-Chantecoq

14th September. The next destination on our agenda was Lac du Der-Chantecoq, the largest artificial lake in Western Europe. There was a 38 km cycle path that circled the entire lake so I was particularly keen to visit it. The lake itself was created to stop the flooding of the Seine in Paris and required the destruction of 3 villages, one of which was Chantecoq, hence the name of the lake. There were 3 or 4 Aires at various points around the lake and we had chosen one at Giffaumont-Champaubert which was a lovely free Aire and had space for 50 motorhomes. We had driven through a short burst of heavy rain en route but the sky had cleared and the sun was back out by the time we had parked up. After a quick coffee break we donned our cycling kit and set off.

One of the lovely beaches around the lake

The cycle path was a lovely wide tarmaced surface that largely hugged the lake edge with just the occasional area where it ventured slightly inland through forested areas. There were numerous viewing points to observe wildlife and several small beaches as well as plenty of places to stop for refreshments as the path passed through several villages. We enjoyed the scenic ride, stopping occasionally to take photos and for a quick coffee break at the far side of the lake. By the time we got back we were starving so we had lunch before I persuaded Glynn that we should venture out again. We explored a local village and checked out a carp fishing competition that was taking place on the lake before returning to relax for the rest of the day. We had cycled 53kms in total so definitely time for a well-earned glass of wine.

The Aire at Mareuil sur Ay

16th September. Yesterday was a rainy day so we did little more than relax, read and play crib. This morning we set off for Mareuil sur Ay where we discovered a lovely Aire right by the Quai on the edge of the Canal de Marne. It was another free Aire although you could pay for electric hook-up if needed but with our solar panel this was not needed. It was a really pretty setting and we were keen to get out and explore. We followed the canal path to Epernay and after a brief exploration of the town we headed back before carrying on past the Aire in the other direction. Usually our rides are fairly casual with plenty of stops for photos but today we were both in the mood to ride hard and as the cycle path was relatively deserted we did a really good fast paced ride.

Cycle path along the Canal de Marne

We even had a cheeky cyclist sit in our slip stream for several kilometres, taking advantage of the tug. We cycled 41kms in all and spent the rest of the day watching the activity on the canal. Just as I was cooking dinner a chip van parked nearby. Glynn looked longingly at me as chips are something we rarely ever buy but have an ongoing joke about every time we see a chip shop. Deciding that we had definitely earned a bag of chips and that they would compliment dinner far nicer than the planned salad accompaniment Glynn went to order a bag while I put the lettuce back in the fridge!! After dinner we went for a walk around the village where there were several champagne houses indicating that we were most definitely in the Champagne region of France.

18th September. Yesterday we drove to Gravelines after a quick detour to Calais wine for some supplies. As we have worked our way closer to the coast so the weather has deteriorated and today was a mixture of sunshine and cloud with an intermittent drizzly rain and a very strong wind for good measure. We cycled to the beach at Gravelines but the wind was so strong that we didn't dare cycle out to the lighthouse which is situated at the end of the 1km pier. We cycled back and carried on to Grand Fort Philippe. Luckily we had battled the head wind on the way there which meant the ride back was particularly easy. We cycled 20 kms before settling down for our last evening in France as we had an early ferry booked for the morning.

What an amazing 2 weeks we have had in France. It really is a stunning country and so well equipped for motorhoming. Our entire cost for Aires has been just under £50 which is amazing. We have cycled 285 kms and seen some truly incredible places. We definitely didn't have time to head to Lake Constance in Germany so that remains on a future agenda. Hermione was a pleasure to travel in and we quickly got used to having slightly less space although this was more than compensated for with the bonus of the rear beds joining to make an enormous 8ft wide bed. My only error was forgetting that we no longer have an oven (as is often the way with German motorhomes) so buying part baked rolls wasn't my brightest move. On the plus side I have picked up a lovely halogen oven for the bargain price of £6 off Gumtree for when we are on electric hook-up which more than makes up for the loss of the built in oven as I have become the master of one pot cooking!! We have made a small list of accessories that we want as we are off to the motorhome show in Lincoln in a few days time. That just leaves October to try and get as much of the house decorated as possible before we jet off to Goa on the 6th November. I will take a rest from writing my blog while we are in Goa but as we have planned a safari to Nagarhole National park in February I will do an update post when we get back in March. Seeing a tiger in the wild is definitely on my bucket list so fingers crossed.